Constant Light Versus Flash Light: Ep 234: Digital Photography 1 on 1: Adorama Photography TV




AdoramaTV Presents Digital Photography One on One. In this episode Mark walks through the differences between using constant light and light from a flash. Join Mark in the studio for a hands-on demonstration that shows how constant light produces different results than light coming from a flash.

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37 responses to “Constant Light Versus Flash Light: Ep 234: Digital Photography 1 on 1: Adorama Photography TV”

  1. So strobe lights just allow you to use a faster shutter, lower iso, and high aperture? I've never used one, but this question came up when I was looking at some portrait art. How do photographers get started? I want to practice but not exactly sure how to obtain clients. I'm assuming its just like film and tv by just giving out free work?

  2. Nice video but you forgot to mention the portability of these two lightsources. You either need to have wall socket or a battery pack for constant lights and battery packs for these things are WAY more expensive than flashguns and some batteries 😉

  3. I had an old konica minolta Semi-SLR camera, way before my SLR days. I know SLR shutter speed is limited to flash sync speed, my pentax's are normally around 1/180th. My old Konica Minolta semi-SLR allowed me to run the strobe at 1/4000th of a second and capture some CRAZY images of running water and stopping everything entirely solid, why is this? I am guessing the teeny tiny shutter in the non-SLR is able to move a lot faster and sync with the flash output.

  4. Shallow depth of field can be achieved with strobes. Just select the aperture for the desired result and adjust the strobes power output to give you a proper exposure. Using a handheld light meter makes this easy.

  5. Im sure 1/100 is correct. The whole point of that section of the video is to explain that you can shoot at 1/100 and still freeze an image with a strobe. I use this method all the time. Interestingly…you can set your shutter speed to 5s if you are in a pitch black room. Flash your strobe a couple of times while pointing the camera in different directions. The final image will be a composite of the flashes and it will have a cool ghostly effect.

  6. the 1/100 is probably the correct answer. as Mark explained, your shutter speed, in this case, is irrelevant b/c with his f/10 and 1/100sec, the exposure is pitch black. the only thing the camera sees is the quick blip of the strobe which is why he as able to 'freeze' the motion.

  7. That's not true either—my old D70 will sync at 1/8000 (which can be shorter than the flash duration), as will most point-and-shoot compacts. What matters is the type of shutter. Cameras that use a focal plane mechanical shutter alone, like most current 35mm and APS-C DSLRs with CMOS sensors, obtain high shutter speeds by exposing only part of the sensor at a time. Leaf shutters (mostly medium format) and electronic shutters (compacts & some old DSLRs) can sync at all speeds.

  8. In addition to what lpfuria posted, a shutter speed of 1/1000s would be faster than the X-sync speed of the camera, so only part of the frame would have been exposed. In order to use shutter speeds higher than the X-sync speed of your camera, you need to use a dedicated flash with focal-plane sync, which fires a number of times during the exposure. See Episode 17 in the series for more information on sync speed.

  9. that's possible and usual as the only light source was from the strobe. he could even slow down the shutter speed at least 1 stop and it wouldn't get any difference — he had showed the black frame when the flashlight was off. the real speed of a standard flashlight power supply is 1/1000, a real good one can achieve 1/8000 like broncolor ones.

  10. Time is money. If you're doing a photo shoot of a high paid model/talent then you can't waste any time calibrating your setup to get the desired image. Therefore, a dedicated light meter can save you precious time and money.

  11. You can create a shallow depth of field with a studio strobe as well. Just lower the strobe's output in conjunction to increasing shutter speed. If that's not enough, you could also use neutral density filters.

  12. Great video, the only thing I noticed was that the pro foto light had a soft box on and It would have been a little more realistic if both lights would have been bare bulbs( just like the hot light), I'm just saying to be fair to the tutorial. Thank you, beautiful images though…

  13. @DrLB85 yes, watt-sec is watt consumption in 1 sec… multiply it up all the way to 1hr, and you get the 1hr consumption… but it fires for a crunch of a sec.. so it's not really "fair" to judge them for that :))))))

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