In this video, we cover everything you need to know about lens diffraction. From what diffraction is to how it applies to your photography, it’s all covered. The video is loaded with practical examples that answer questions like:
How far can you safely stop down?
Does diffraction limit the usefulness of high res sensors?
Can you sharpen out diffraction?
Should you ever use small F/stops?
What causes diffraction in the first place?
What’s the difference between sharpness and depth of field?
Tons of examples and info that every photographer needs to know.
Also, check out my website for more:
http://www.backcountrygallery.com
NOTE – I’ve had a few questions about the sharpening technique used – it was just plain old unsharp mask.
As always, please share this video 🙂
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28 responses to “Lens Diffraction In Photography”
Thanks you Steve for providing these excellent videos. You answered many really useful questions here.
I'd like to pick a relatively small nit with your explanation of why diffraction happens, in particular why it's worse at narrower apertures. From my understanding of the physics of light, diffraction happens at equal amounts at all apertures — light always bends when it passes close to an edge. However, at narrow apertures the amount of light that comes through unbent is so much smaller that the diffracted light becomes a larger portion of the light received on the sensor. So, it's not so much that the light bends more, but that the ratio of "straight" light to "bent" light is smaller.
Am I missing something?
Superb explanation. Thanks Steve.
Steve, Great video. boy was I upside down on my thinking about F-stops and image detail. Could have had a lot better shots early on if I would have understood this better.
First accurate explanation i saw on youtube.
This is the best diffraction video for photographers by far. The perfect mix of technically accurate info with practical applications by far
Thank you! I recently went on a photo walk and every single one of my photos turned out noticeably un-sharp. I was using an EM5 MK II and the Panasonic 35-100 f4-5.6, and I was shooting between f11-f22 the whole time. I guess I'll have to keep it more open and experiment with some stacking next time.
No no I need my sun stars!
excellent video on diffraction！
Excellent thank you Steve.
Great explanation! Regarding the diffraction+resolution question at 7:11, I would simply add that in any case, you can just user a lower resolution in the higher resolution camera and you are in the exact same situation as with the lower resolution camera!
The higher the resolution you use, the more careful you have to be with the photo as the higher detail will show you any little camera shake or focusing issue when you see a 100% crop.
Similarly, lowering the resolution makes you lose detail but also imperfections. So for example a blurry picture downsampled to 640×480 will probably look quite fine (considering its size).
Excellent vid, thank you 🙂
Great video. Many thanks for sharing. Would be great if you did a video on how to use a tilt and shift lens using live view for landscape work.
One of the best explanations on this topic!! Also I've wondered is this topic related to the topic of how full frame photos are sharper than APS-C? I've been reading something about the more dense sensor of APS-C challenges the lens more thereby resolving in lower resolution.
Excellent video. Thanks
cool video
Thank you for this video, very useful, I think it would be better if you don't speak that fast. lol
Great video, Steve. Have you had the opportunity to try the new diffraction correction in Capture One 10? By the way, some beginners may get confused hearing smaller apertures referred to as smaller f-stops, which are higher numbers.
Awesome video, thank you!
Steve,
Once again, very informative! This really helps, as I am headed out to Utah, Arizona and Colorado on my tour of 7 National Parks, Monument Valley and Antelope Canyon. I am sure I'll pay more attention to using a "moderate" F stop, while considering what I need in depth of field. I also shoot with mirror up, a cable release, a Gitzo tripod with RRS Ballhead and a D800. How can I go wrong with your tips and my gear? 🙂
Likes and Subscribed.
One of the best videos I have seen lately! and just like the D800e, you are packed with details, so keep sharing as they come across crisp & clear!
Best video I've seen on the subject….Excellent explanation and examples
Thanks for this video with awesome information. It was incredibly funny (in the good way of course), I almost fell off my chair.
Hi Steve, my question is, I recently rented a black magic micro cinema camera to shoot a wedding video. After reviewing my clips I noticed some weird pixelated noise in the shadows of the wedding members skin mostly while outdoors in bright sunlight. At first, I thought it was the camera but couldn't find anyone else having the issue. I didn't use ND filters so I know while outside I had to stop down a great deal if not stop down completely to establish proper exposure. So, my question is, is it possible I was experiencing diffraction in the shadows where there was already video noise in effect combining together creating this weird pixelated video noise that can't be removed noise reduction software? I've shot video outdoors with a Nikon d7200 and another black magic camera and didn't get these results. Thanks.
Anthony Morganti brought me here.
always a pleasure to learn from Steve
Thanks Steve, this information will fix a problem in many of my landscape shots. I was one of those who's standard setting was stopped down for best depth of field.
Hey Steve, what's your preferred camera?
Hey Steve,
I have one question, because I've never seen anyone mention it. You use cable release so can you give me some advantages of cable release compare with remote? I own a remote but I'd like to know if there is some advantage of cable if it exists or it's just a same.
Many thanks.