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In this episode, Mark Wallace shows you how to use a Neutral Density filter, Circular Polarizer, and a tripod to shoot a river with a very slow shutter speed. Shooting with a slow shutter will allow you to blur the water and make it look like glass. Mark also discusses some of his post-production decisions and creates two versions of his photo: a standard image and an HDR image.
Related Products at Adorama:
Hoya 77mm 4X (0.6) Neutral Density Multi Coated Glass Filter
http://www.adorama.com/HY77ND4XM.html
Tiffen 77mm Circular Polarizer Glass Filter
http://www.adorama.com/TF77CPL.html
Canon EOS-5D Mark III Digital SLR Camera Body
http://www.adorama.com/ICA5DM3A.html
Benro Travel Angel II Carbon Fiber Tripod
http://www.adorama.com/BEC1682TV1.html
Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II
http://www.adorama.com/CA16352U.html
Check out Adorama’s latest contest here for great prizes!:
http://www.adorama.com/AdoramaU
If you have questions, share them with us at: adotv@adorama.com
Original source
20 responses to “Water Like Glass : Exploring Photography with Mark Wallace : Adorama Photography TV.”
Great HDR idea for waterfalls and nature. I will be using this tecnique as an option on my next shoot – tomorrow.
Great idea using HDR with a waterfall using neutral density and polarizer. I'm going to try this and see what happens. I shoot a lot of waterfalls and water motion scenes and this method will add to my shot workflow.
02:55 "A neutral density filter helps us to cut down on the reflections" – Yeah, sure bro. You really know your stuff.
Also, why are you uploading in HD 1080p if you shoot the video with a potato?
Rotate the ND filter??? I think you mean the Polarizer. Perhaps review before you post.
what lens did you use, Mark?
that was a polarizer not ND
very useful !
Dear Mark, Love listening to your torrents of super information. What an avalanche of tech data and I use these quite frequently. A quick query, Having bought a Pocket Wizard system Mini TTL1 I am wondering, which is the best Pocket Wizard system, Mini TTL1, Plus II or Plus III? Thank you
In the video it is mentioned that the circular polarizer filter will cut down the dynamic range. This it will not do. It will, however, cut light transmission uniformly by about 2 stops. Your dynamic range is what it was before except now you can use slower shutter speeds. It would worth mentioning how you were focusing with the ND and CP filter – were you doing so with both filters on? It looks like you were using the evaluative meter setting. Did you spot meter the brightest parts in your scenery or use the histogram to expose to the right putting your brightest whites at the rightmost extreme?
is it important to have that filter while doing this trick or nah?
Would be very interesting to see the B&W of this
Possibly a dumb question as I am a beginner with photoshop: instead of cropping to eliminate the vignetting could you have tried using the healing brush? I know it doesn't always work as planned but is that also a possibility?
+Mark Wallace Can you tell me how can I do this using cheap filters (Cokin P) without getting that ugly magenta cast?
Ok, one probably stupid question, but it is unclear to me…so you can simply mount neutral density filter ONTO the circular polarizer or i missed something?
Thanks. I think you meant rotate the circular polarising filter not rotate the neutral density filter to reduce the tonal range.
I think when he was talking about getting rid of reflections with the CPL he actually called it the ND filter….
Mark, you said rotating the ND filter would cut down on the reflections on the rocks. I'm confused. Did you mean to say polarizing filter? Thanks.
Mark, would you mind talking about taking care of your equipment? What have you brought to clean lenses, etc.
Thanks!
Love it!!!
Nice video! We need bloopers tho! 🙂