Water Like Glass : Exploring Photography with Mark Wallace : Adorama Photography TV.




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In this episode, Mark Wallace shows you how to use a Neutral Density filter, Circular Polarizer, and a tripod to shoot a river with a very slow shutter speed. Shooting with a slow shutter will allow you to blur the water and make it look like glass. Mark also discusses some of his post-production decisions and creates two versions of his photo: a standard image and an HDR image.

Related Products at Adorama:

Hoya 77mm 4X (0.6) Neutral Density Multi Coated Glass Filter
http://www.adorama.com/HY77ND4XM.html

Tiffen 77mm Circular Polarizer Glass Filter
http://www.adorama.com/TF77CPL.html

Canon EOS-5D Mark III Digital SLR Camera Body
http://www.adorama.com/ICA5DM3A.html

Benro Travel Angel II Carbon Fiber Tripod
http://www.adorama.com/BEC1682TV1.html

Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II
http://www.adorama.com/CA16352U.html

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If you have questions, share them with us at: adotv@adorama.com

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20 responses to “Water Like Glass : Exploring Photography with Mark Wallace : Adorama Photography TV.”

  1. Great idea using HDR with a waterfall using neutral density and polarizer. I'm going to try this and see what happens. I shoot a lot of waterfalls and water motion scenes and this method will add to my shot workflow.

  2. Dear Mark, Love listening to your torrents of super information. What an avalanche of tech data and I use these  quite frequently. A quick query, Having bought a Pocket Wizard system Mini TTL1  I am wondering, which is the best Pocket Wizard system, Mini TTL1, Plus II or Plus III? Thank you

  3. In the video it is mentioned that the circular polarizer filter will cut down the dynamic range. This it will not do. It will, however, cut light transmission uniformly by about 2 stops. Your dynamic range is what it was before except now you can use slower shutter speeds. It would worth mentioning how you were focusing with the ND and CP filter – were you doing so with both filters on? It looks like you were using the evaluative meter setting. Did you spot meter the brightest parts in your scenery or use the histogram to expose to the right putting your brightest whites at the rightmost extreme?

  4. Possibly a dumb question as I am a beginner with photoshop: instead of cropping to eliminate the vignetting could you have tried using the healing brush? I know it doesn't always work as planned but is that also a possibility?

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